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I get 8 minutes at ISO 100, 2 minutes for upto 400 ISO and only 1 minute thereafter upto 1600 ISO. However with my Olympus E-400 the exposure times are less than those above. The exposure time for an Olympus (E-Series) camera at ISO 100 will be 8 minutes, at ISO 400 it will be 4 minutes, at 800 it should be 2 minutes and at 1600 it should be 1 minute. The Olympus range however will only expose for a certain amount of time and even then it depends on what ISO you are using. To clarify further.Ī digital and film SLR in 'BULB' mode should ineffect expose for an infinite amount of time, providing you hold the shutter release down. The reason is due to the Olympus models not being able to expose for a long enough time.
![liveview slr liveview slr](https://nikonschool.co.uk/files/6045.png)
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#Liveview slr how to#
Would ideally like the Canon D20a but can't find any.Īny help would be great on how to modify things.Īll the Olympus D-SLR's I have looked at are exactly the same as the one I have. Our mobile line of commercial and industrial remote solar cameras offer users unlimited application possibilities. The Nikon D-300 is too pricey >1000, the Canon D40 looks good around £600-800. But, personally I hate looking through a small viewfinder. If there is a way to get a live preview on a laptop then I would appreciate some more info on that. Another reason I use the eyepiece is because the t-adaptor will not attach to the plastic camera entry point. If I were to attach the D-DLR to the plastic threaded area at the bk of the NexStar 4SE scope, then the camera would bash against the mount as it was tracking / slewing, hence me using the eyepiece rather than the provided camera entry point. This is especially difficult on low light DSO's. Use a loupe or viewfinder to magnify the image on your cameras LCD screen, making it much.
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The K-S1, K-S2, and K-3 are another step up when it comes to AF speed but are otherwise very similar in terms of features.Well I would prefer to have the LiveView feature because.I use a metal (non-threaded) t-adaptor to connect the D-SLR to the scope, the camera just sits in the eyepiece holder, however if I am swapping between eyepiece and camera then the focus changes and it annoying to have to look through the small viewfinder on the camera to re-focus the camera. Punch in on a shot in LiveView mode to achieve sharp focus. KonstantinThe K-01/K-30/K-50 are all about the same in live view, and can be considered a large improvement over the K-r, which was essentially the first Pentax consumer camera with live view. that I cannot honestly recomend it to anyone K-30/K-50 will be probably best value for the money right now considering your priorities (i would rule out k-01since you say you whant something more substantial). Second one which is probably what you have in mind is due to the shake reduction being constantly engaged while in live view - I guess if you switch the shake reduction off this noise also goes away, but I haven't tried and I dont have the camera around me right now to check it. But it must have a usable Live View function, better than the one in the K-r.īut there were issues like slow picture refreshing, missing auto focus, a loud noise probably from the parts keeping up the mirrorthe Noise will probably be about the same on every recent pentax camera - there are two separate features that cause noise ( that i can think of ) in Live View compared to using the viewfinder.įirst one is if you use phase detect autofocus in Live View - basically then it flips the mirror every time when it focuses (and the screen goes temporary black) - this can be turned off by selecting contrast detect focus. I even consider getting a second-hand K-30 or K-50. My "new" Pentax must not be a top of the line one. Therefore I'm considering returning to Pentax all the more as there are some interesting new DA lenses. Aside from that I'm missing the feeling of holding something substantial in my hands. It's all fine but I have to admit completing a Fuji system is costly (for example real wide angle, macro, fast zooms) or impossible. I ended up getting a Fuji X-A1 mirrorless, a kit zoom and a 27mm pancake lens. Last year I selled the Pentax digital gear and looked for something smaller, lightweight and discreet, less eye-catching. But there were issues like slow picture refreshing, missing auto focus, a loud noise probably from the parts keeping up the mirror, high power consumption etc. I began frequently using the display instead of the eyepiece viewinder. The last and surely best Pentax DSLR I did own was the K-r.